1. Overview of the Sari
The ancient and exotic sari, India’s traditional national dress for women, has withstood the test of time and is now over 5,000 years old. For those who’ve never put one on, a sari can be a bit of a mystery with its many pleats and folds.
2. Understanding the Sari
What Is a Sari?
A sari is simply a long length of fabric, typically six to nine yards, that’s worn elegantly wrapped around the body. In this regard, one size truly fits all. One end of the material is richly decorated and is called the pallu. It’s usually worn pleated and pinned over the shoulder, draping down the back. It can also be worn open over the shoulder and draped over the arm.
A special blouse that bares the midriff, called a choli, and a petticoat are worn under the sari. As the sari is wrapped around the body, the material is tucked tightly into the petticoat so it doesn’t fall down. No pins are needed, although it is common to use them. Cholis can be purchased separately, although quality saris do come with an attached piece of blouse material. This is taken to a tailor who will hem the sari and make the blouse to size in a couple of days.
3. Different Types of Saris
What Are Different Types of Saris Available?
Every state across India has its own special weaves and fabrics for its saris. One of the most popular and traditional types of saris is the Kanchipuram/Kanjeevaram, from south India. This sari is made out of heavy silk material and has broad decorative borders and contrasting colors. Many of the patterns are derived from temples, palaces, and paintings.
Another popular type of sari is the Banarasi sari, which is hand woven in Banaras (also known as Varanasi). These saris became fashionable way back when the Moguls ruled India, and they exhibit patterns from this era. Banarasi saris are admired for their eye-catching, colorful dyed silk fabric. Many feature designs of villages, flowers, and temples.
Other well-known types of saris include the bright tie-dyed Bandhani/Bandhej saris from Rajasthan and Gujarat, cotton Gadhwal saris with silk borders and pallu from Andhra Pradesh, Maheshwari saris from Madhya Pradesh, and the gorgeous fine silk and gold-woven Paithani saris with peacock design from Maharashtra.
A notable feature of most saris is the zari (gold thread) work in them. This fine gold thread is woven throughout the sari but appears mostly on the borders and pallu. The zari itself traditionally comes from Surat, in the state of Gujarat.
4. The Cost of Saris
What Is the Cost?
It’s possible to pick up a cheap sari for only 150 rupees at a street market; however, you’ll need to be prepared to pay much more to get a quality item. Purchasing a beautiful sari in India is still inexpensive compared to Western prices.
The main thing that affects the price of a sari is the type of fabric that it’s made out of. Plainly printed silk saris are available from 1,500 rupees. Any sari that has thread work woven into it will cost more, with the price increasing in proportion to the amount of thread work. If the sari also has zari in it, the cost will be higher again. Another factor influencing the price of a sari is the amount and type of embroidery on it, such as around the border. Saris that have lots of hand-stitched decoration on them will cost more.
You should expect to pay at least 6,000 rupees for a decent and authentic Kanchipuram sari, although imitation ones can cost as little as 750 rupees. Good quality Banarasi saris start from around 2,000 rupees. The simplest exquisite Paithani sari is not cheap and begins at around 10,000 rupees. Bandhani saris are much more affordable, from 1,000 rupees.
As far as upper price limits go for saris, the amount can easily extend to 50,000 rupees or more.
5. Choosing the Right Sari
Choosing the One for the Right Occasion
When selecting a sari, it is essential to consider where you intend to wear it. The type of fabric, color, design or pattern, and embroidery are all important considerations. Just like it would be appropriate to wear chiffon or silk to a formal event, and cotton during the day, the same principle applies when dressing in a sari. If you’re purchasing a sari for a festival or wedding ceremony, a traditional silk sari is a suitable choice. For a wedding reception, chiffon, georgette or net saris are popular, adorned with embroidery and embellishments! The cut of the blouse also varies. The blouse for an evening wear sari typically features shorter sleeves and a lower cut at the back.
If you’re serious about making an impression when wearing a sari, don’t forget your jewelry! Properly accessorizing the sari is crucial, so consider buying matching bangles along with a coordinated jewelry set (necklace and earrings).
6. Ensuring Quality
What to Be Careful Of
Many places offer imitation saris with copies of Kanjeevaram and other patterns. The most important aspect to check is the quality of the silk and zari in the sari. Upon initial inspection, the silk may feel thick and glossy near the pallu, but inside the sari, it may be half the thickness! Manufacturers of lower quality saris use two-ply silk instead of three-ply for weaving and fake gold thread for the zari work.
The zari used for a Kanjeevaram sari is a silk thread covered with flattened silver in the center and gold on the outer surface. To test whether the zari is genuine, scratch or scrape it, and if red silk doesn’t emerge from the core, the sari is not a true Kanjeevaram sari. Additionally, the border, body, and pallu of a genuine Kanjeevaram silk sari are woven separately and then interlocked together.
7. Shopping for Saris
Best Places to Shop
The best place to shop for Kanjeevaram saris is where they’re traditionally made — in Kanchipuram, near Chennai in the state of Tamil Nadu. Buying here can save you approximately 10% on the purchase price. However, if you cannot travel that far south in India, Delhi and Mumbai have excellent stores selling a wide range of saris from all over the country. The following places are reputable and stock high-quality items:
- Chhabra 555 – Established over 50 years ago, offers a wonderful range of Banarasi, Kanjeevaram, and Bandhani saris in all price ranges.
- Karol Bagh Saree House – Located in the upper-class market area of Karol Bagh, this store is one of the best places to buy saris in Delhi.
- Dadar Emporium – Centrally located in Mumbai, boasts a huge collection of saris, with specialties in Banarasi and Navvari saris.
- Vanza Sons – Located in south Mumbai, known for their Bandhani tie-dyed saris.
- Suruchi Saree Mandir – A large, ordinary but accommodating store in south Mumbai, full of saris and dress materials starting at 500 rupees.
Additionally, numerous saris can be found in the depths of New Market in Kolkata.
8. Tips for Authenticity
Tip for Buying Kanchipuram Kanjeevaram Saris
Silk saris from Kanchipuram are among the finest in India. However, many fakes are available, and they can be challenging to identify. Fortunately, legislation regulates the Kanchipuram silk sari brand, with only authorized cooperative silk societies and select individual weavers permitted to use the term.
