Summary
Every year, millions of migratory birds traverse the same north-south routes across the world, known as flyways, between breeding and wintering grounds. Brackish Chilika Lake, in Odisha, is the largest wintering ground for migratory birds in the Indian Subcontinent. The serene wetlands at Mangalajodi, on the northern edge of Chilika Lake, attract a substantial proportion of these birds. However, what’s really remarkable is how unusually close-up you can see them!
In recognition of Chilika Lake’s significance as a haven for migratory birds, the United Nations World Tourism Organization included it under its Destination Flyways project in 2014. This project aims to promote bird-related tourism to help conserve migratory birds while supporting local communities.
In this regard, Mangalajodi has an inspiring story. Villagers once relied on bird hunting for their livelihood until the conservation group Wild Orissa implemented awareness programs that converted poachers into protectors. Now, community-based eco-tourism is one of their primary income sources, with former hunters using their extensive knowledge of the wetlands to guide visitors on bird-watching trips. In 2018, Mangalajodi Eco Tourism Trust—the local community-owned wildlife conservation initiative—won the prestigious United Nations World Tourism Organisation Award for Innovation in Tourism Enterprise.
Moreover, tourists can learn about migratory birds at the renovated Mangalajodi Bird Interpretation Center.
Location
Mangalajodi village is approximately an hour and a half southwest of Bhubaneshwar in Odisha, located in Khurda district. It is situated off National Highway 5, heading towards Chennai.
How to Get There
Bhubaneshwar’s airport welcomes flights from various locations across India. The most convenient option is to take a taxi from Bhubaneshwar, with fares around 1,500 rupees. Alternatively, if you prefer traveling by bus, the nearest bus stop is Tangi. Train services stop at Mukteswar Passenger Halt station, located between Kalupada Ghat and Bhusandpur railway stations.
Additionally, Puri-based Grassroutes Journeys offers a birding tour to Mangalajodi.
When to Go
Birds begin to arrive at Mangalajodi by the middle of October. To maximize bird sightings, mid-December to February is the optimal time for a visit. It is common to spot around 50 species of birds, although during peak season, as many as 180 species can be observed. The birds typically start departing by March.
National Chilika Bird Festival
A new initiative by the Odisha government, the National Chilika Bird Festival is held at Mangalajodi on January 27 and 28 each year. The inaugural edition took place in 2018. The festival aims to promote Chilika on the global tourist map by hosting bird-watching trips, workshops, photography competitions, and promotional stalls.
Where to Stay
Currently, there are just two accommodation options in Mangalajodi. The more widely known option is Mangalajodi Eco Tourism, which offers dormitories and simple local-style cottages. Unfortunately, different pricing structures for Indians and foreigners have raised concerns. Cottage packages start from 4,199 rupees (Indian rate) and 6,299 rupees (foreigner rate) for one night for two people. Dorms accommodating four individuals cost 5,099 rupees for Indians and 7,649 rupees for foreigners. All meals and one boat trip are included, while additional boat trips cost 1,200 rupees for Indians and 1,800 rupees for foreigners for two hours. Day and photography packages are also available, with rates provided on the website.
The other newer and more affordable option is Godwit Eco Cottage, named after a popular bird and dedicated to Mangaljodi’s bird protection committee (Sri Sri Mahavir Pakshi Surakhshya Samiti). It features seven clean, attractive eco-friendly rooms and one dormitory. Rates start from 2,600 rupees per night for a couple, regardless of nationality, with all meals included. The hotel staff can readily arrange for boat trips, although additional charges apply.
Boating and Birding Trips
If you opt for the package offered by Mangalajodi Eco Tourism, you can enjoy an all-inclusive experience. Otherwise, expect to pay approximately 850 rupees for a three-hour boat trip with an experienced guide, depending on demand and group size. Binoculars and bird books are typically provided. To reach the boat departure point, auto-rickshaws charge around 350 rupees for a round trip.
For avid birders and photographers looking to arrange multiple independent boat trips, Hajari Behera is an excellent guide with extensive knowledge of the area. His contact number is 7855972714.
Boat trips operate all day from sunrise until sunset, with the best times being very early in the morning at dawn and in the afternoon around 2-3 p.m., leading up to dusk.
Other Attractions Around Mangalajodi
If you are keen to explore beyond bird watching, a trail leads up the hill behind the village to a small cave that hosted a local holy man for many years, offering expansive views of the countryside.
Additionally, a short walk along a dusty path several kilometers before reaching the village will take you to a colorful Shiva temple, a popular gathering point for locals.
Further afield, about 7 kilometers from Mangalajodi, is Brahmandi, a potters’ village. Visiting this location allows you to witness skilled artisans transforming clay into various products, from pots to toys.
See photos of Mangalajodi and surroundings on Facebook.
