Summary
Rock Climbing in the Twin Cities
You might have noticed that the landscape of Minneapolis and St. Paul is generally flat. However, for those passionate about rock climbing, this area offers three rock climbing crags within an hour’s drive of the Twin Cities. Furthermore, there are several climbing walls in Minneapolis and St. Paul for practice and winter climbing, along with a vibrant local climbing scene.
There are three climbing spots within an hour’s drive of Minneapolis or St. Paul: Interstate State Park, Taylors Falls, MN/St. Croix Falls, WI.
On the Minnesota-Wisconsin border, straddling the St. Croix River, are basalt cliffs. The climbing ranges from easy climbs for beginners and children, through a variety of routes that get as easy or as difficult as you like. Climbs range from 5.4 up to 5.13 and have places for anchors and easy access to the top of the cliff, making it perfect for top-roping. Furthermore, traditional lead climbing is also possible on most of the routes here with solid protection. The unique geology of the St. Croix valley creates many interesting rock formations and offers plenty of bouldering opportunities.
All climbers at Interstate State Park need a climbing permit, which can be obtained for free at the park office. A parking permit is also required to park in the Minnesota side lot, while a Wisconsin parking permit is required for the Wisconsin side.
Pros: The rock is mostly great, with solid holds, excellent places for anchors and protection, a nice variety of climbs, and a great view from the top.
Cons: While mostly great, there are still areas with loose rocks, and the size of the loose debris often falls between “large” and “large boulder.” Wildlife enjoys the rocks too—wasps love Taylors Falls as much as the climbers do. Moreover, the presence of other park users, while generally curious and harmless, can pose a risk of interference with your climbing setup.
Climbing Routes at Interstate State Park From Mountain Project
A limestone bluff high above the town of Red Wing on the Mississippi River, known as Barn Bluff, offers almost as good a view from the top as you find at Taylors Falls.
Setting top rope anchors at Red Wing may be impossible or prohibited due to ecological damage that has occurred at the cliff’s top. Therefore, most routes are bolted for sport leading and have fixed anchors at the top of the routes for lowering and top-roping.
There are around 100 sport routes available, ranging from 5.6 to 5.14. Traditional lead climbing is also possible on a few cracks, but this is a place where caution is advised— the rock quality is not as solid as it is at Taylors Falls.
It’s wise to use your own carabiners on the anchors if you plan to top rope here, as this saves wear on the fixed gear at the top of the routes.
Pros: Minimal gear requirements since almost every established route has been bolted for sport leading. A rope, a set of quick draws, and a buddy are all you need for a day of climbing. Additionally, it’s possible to climb here in the winter on a sunny day when the sun warms the rock on the south-facing side.
Cons: Not recommended for beginner sport leaders. Despite several easy and moderate routes, the rock on them is often polished and can be run out since they were bolted by taller, highly skilled climbers. Consequently, routes in the 5.6-5.9 range often feel harder than their grades. More challenging climbs, those above 5.10, feel more true to their grades. Additionally, bringing a pole to stick-clip the first bolt (or two bolts) is advisable. You’ll need to wear a helmet for protection from typical climbing hazards, as well as from rocks that have been known to be thrown from the top of the bluff.
Willow River State Park, Hudson, WI
This area is recognized as one of the most intimidating climbing locations in the Midwest. Willow River’s falls have carved out an incredible overhanging gorge, which features several bolted sport routes. Among these, there is one 5.9 climb, while everything else is at least 5.11 through ungraded projects. Consequently, the routes are all endurance climbs, involving big moves to substantial holds. If you are strong enough to climb here, Willow River offers thrilling and addictive climbing experiences.
However, climbing hours are restricted— climbing is prohibited on Saturday and during the afternoon on Friday and Sunday.
Pros: Unique climbing location in the Midwest, and incredibly fun climbing opportunities for those with sufficient skill. In addition, the overall beauty of Willow River State Park makes it an enjoyable place to explore.
Cons: Failing on the only ‘easy’ climb likely results in a broken ankle on a ledge right below it. Other climbs generally offer safe falls once above the initial bolts. Moreover, the river’s proximity makes it difficult for climbers and belayers to communicate without shouting, making it essential to pay close attention to your climber.
Local Indoor Climbing Walls and Gyms
Vertical Endeavors climbing gym in St. Paul features numerous walls with over a hundred routes, primarily for top roping, alongside plenty of lead climbing and auto-belay routes for solo climbers. Additionally, there are two bouldering caves, ensuring that climbers remain happy and fit during the winter months.
Midwest Mountaineering has a free bouldering cave located in their basement. Climbers can register at the climbing department to access this exciting facility.
REI in Bloomington features the Vertical Endeavors-designed Pinnacle, equipped with routes tailored for children, alongside many beginner and intermediate routes, plus a few tougher challenges. This establishment boasts the tallest climbing wall in the Twin Cities. Additionally, REI members enjoy one complimentary climb of the Pinnacle, subject to availability.
Life Time Fitness gyms across the Twin Cities offer rock climbing walls for members, including those in Chanhassen, Eagan, Lakeville, and Plymouth. Be sure to check their website for more locations and details.
University of Minnesota Climbing Facilities offer a climbing wall with five top ropes and various routes, while the University Recreation Center on the Minneapolis campus features a bouldering wall. Access to the St. Paul wall requires a membership in the Department of Recreational Sports, which is open to everyone.
Where to Get Gear Locally
Midwest Mountaineering is the local expert store located in Minneapolis’ Cedar-Riverside neighborhood. The staff in the climbing department are experienced climbers who share a deep passion for the activity. You can receive coupons, birthday discounts, and reminders for store events, such as the twice-yearly Outdoor Adventure Expo and Sale, and the highly anticipated employee garage sales.
Vertical Endeavors climbing gym in St. Paul also boasts a pro shop with a decent selection of gear. Each month, one category of gear goes on sale— for instance, climbing shoes may be 20% off one month, while ropes are discounted the next. Joining their email list will keep you informed about upcoming sales.
REI, with additional locations in Maple Grove, Roseville, and the main store in Bloomington, carries a curated selection of climbing gear for those looking to equip themselves for the adventures ahead.
