Summary
It seems as though Ireland is full of dramatic, atmospheric sites, and Poulnabrone Dolmen is yet another one that confirms this.
As one of Ireland’s most iconic (and photographed!) archeological sites, this impressive portal tomb of towering stones is situated on a high limestone plateau in County Clare.
Melancholic, elegiac and solemn, the surrounding landscape invokes a powerful simplicity and appreciation of how the dead were honored almost 6,000 years ago.
Poulnabrone Dolmen makes for the perfect stop along your Irish road trip; spend a few moments immersed in the sound of rushing wind through the stones, or marvel at the shifting shadows that stretch across the wide, vibrant field which surrounds it.
Poulnabrone Dolmen: What’s it all about?
Poulnabrone Dolmen is Ireland’s oldest megalithic monument and an epic portal tomb made up of massive stones.
Literally meaning “the hole of the sorrows,” Poulnabrone is set against the barren but beautiful landscape of Burren National Park.
It is one of about 172 portal tombs in Ireland, dating back to the Neolithic period, most likely between 4200 and 2900 BC.
Its impressive structure indicates the care with which the dead were honored during that time; two upright stones support a 12-foot horizontal “roof,” creating a chamber that measures around 30 feet high.
A separate stone lies on the ground nearby and was probably used as a kind of door to close the back part of the portal, but it has since collapsed.
When Poulnabrone Dolmen was excavated for the first time in the late 1980s, several items were found in the tomb, including a polished stone axe, stone disc beads, a bone pendant, quartz crystals, and numerous pottery items.
These findings point towards the rich ritualism of the burial process, as well as the careful planning and craftsmanship involved.
However, the exact purpose of these items, while speculated upon, remains unknown.
The History of Poulnabrone Dolmen
Being the oldest megalithic monument in Ireland, it is somewhat surprising that Poulnabrone Dolmen wasn’t excavated until 1986.
What prompted this investigation was a crack that had appeared in the eastern portal stone just one year prior—which ultimately led to its collapse and eventual replacement.
In addition to serving as a burial chamber, Poulnabrone might also have functioned as a territorial marker within the Neolithic landscape.
Excavations have confirmed that the site was used for an impressively long stretch of time—approximately 600 continuous years!
Moreover, in addition to several items, the human remains of 33 individuals were found buried under the monument during the excavations.
Interestingly, none of the remains were fully intact skeletons—this proves that the site was used not strictly as a burial place, but as a commemorative site primarily aimed at honoring, even celebrating, the dead.
Currently, the site is open to the public and welcomed thousands of visitors annually.
What to expect
Poulnabrone Dolmen is a short trek off the road that runs between Ballyvaughan and Kilnaboy, thereby making it an excellent stop along your journey to either town.
Entrance to the site is free(!) and comes with informational boards that border the tomb.
Additionally, a knowledgeable staff member from The Office of Public Works is usually available in the car park to address any queries visitors might have.
Though a rope barrier prevents anyone from getting too close to the monument, this does not take away from the overall experience.
The stones, massive in their own right, offer a broader perspective and enable a deeper appreciation when viewed from a distance.
Despite the tomb being located in a rather remote location, it can still attract considerable traffic on-site.
In the past, narrow, winding roads posed challenges until a new parking lot was opened in 2007.
That being said, although the crowds have not diminished, the site itself is so vast that a sense of crowding is rarely experienced.
Tips for visiting Poulnabrone Dolmen
- Definitely wear hiking shoes or sneakers with good traction when visiting Poulnabrone Dolmen!
- Limestone rocks jut out of the ground, making for rugged but compelling terrain.
- You can’t go wrong choosing a time to visit, but the way the sun sets behind the tomb casts dramatic long shadows over the eerie, desolate field. If you appreciate atmospheric beauty, consider a visit during sunset.
Fun fact: The absence of light pollution around Poulnabrone is often utilized by the Shannonside Astronomy Club, which frequently uses the parking lot as an unofficial public observatory!
