Essential Hiking Tips for the John Muir Trail

What it’s Like Hiking the John Muir Trail

“The ants go marching one by one, hurrah, hurrah, the ants go marching one by one hurrah, hurrah!” The song pounded relentlessly through my head as I concentrated on putting one foot in front of the other while hiking the John Muir Trail in California.

My backpack dug into my hips and shoulders, and large boulders and talus rocks littered the dusty path. I knew if I looked too far up the trail, I might turn around, sit down, and give up. It was the fourth high-altitude mountain pass of the week, and I was exhausted.

One foot in front of the other. Breathe in and out. Take a break, turn around to survey the scenery, and weep at its remarkable beauty. Keep walking and hiking, day in and day out, until you feel like you might break.

That’s what it’s like hiking the 221-mile John Muir Trail through California’s Sierra Nevada. The entire John Muir Trail is 220 miles, but we started further south and ended about 20 miles early, totaling approximately 230 miles.

John Muir Trail Quick Facts

The John Muir Trail is located in the Sierra Nevada mountain range of California and traverses some of the nation’s most famous national parks. Yosemite National Park, Ansel Adams Wilderness Area, Sequoia, and Kings Canyon National Parks are all accessible via sections of the John Muir Trail.

The John Muir Trail Length is 211 miles from end to end, ending at Mount Whitney, the highest peak in the continental United States, standing at 14,496 ft. (4,418 meters).

Best Time to Hike John Muir Trail – According to the Pacific Crest Trail Association, the trail is accessible from July through September. While it’s possible to start earlier in June and extend into October, there is an increased risk of snowfall, which can be dangerous.

The John Muir Trail is among the most challenging yet rewarding experiences I’ve ever had in my life.

About the John Muir Trail

Our journey spanned 22 days of hiking from dawn to dusk through some of the most stunning mountain scenery in the United States, featuring lush hidden valleys, crystal-clear creeks, bright blue tarns, and breathtaking alpine vistas.

Most of the trail sits above 10,000 feet in elevation, including six mountain passes, one of which approaches 14,000 feet. If desired, and we did, hikers can summit Mount Whitney, the tallest mountain in the contiguous United States at 14,505 feet.

However, the John Muir Trail is not for the faint of heart or those prone to altitude sickness. I took high-altitude medicine for three days before tackling the trail and for five days prior to summiting Whitney, but I still faced difficulties on my descent.

What I learned on this hike is that the body adapts, mindset is crucial, and completing a thru-hike of this magnitude creates a life-changing experience. By the end of my hike, I felt incredibly fit and in tune with nature.

Would I attempt it again? Perhaps. Would I recommend others do it? Absolutely. If this sounds like an adventure you want to pursue, here’s how to tackle the trail.

How to Get a Permit for the John Muir Trail

Acquiring a permit to hike the John Muir Trail is one of the more challenging aspects of this adventure. Hikers from around the globe flock to California to experience this winding mountain trail, competing with thousands for a limited number of permits.

To manage this demand, Yosemite restricts exits via the John Muir Trail to just 45 hikers per day. When submitting your application, it’s beneficial to list several trailhead options.

The most popular route is from Yosemite Valley exiting through the Mount Whitney Portal. Although most hikers prefer starting from the Yosemite valley floor, several other trailheads within Yosemite are available. Another route worth considering is hiking from south to north.

Despite trying daily for a month or two for a permit out of Yosemite, we ultimately secured a permit from Cottonwood Meadows for a northbound hike. This required two days of hiking before joining the John Muir Trail, plus one additional challenging mountain pass.

If you prefer not to undertake the entire trail, it is possible to enter at various points along the way.

How to Pack Food For the John Muir Trail

The most significant mistake I made while preparing for the John Muir Trail was regarding food packing.

We embarked on our hike with 12 days of food, but it couldn’t fit properly into our bear-proof containers, necessitating hikes far enough each day to find campsites featuring bear boxes.

Moreover, my food choices were poor. I selected heavy packs of tortillas, rolls of sausages, and hard cheese. When carrying this much food, it’s vital to focus on freeze-dried options. All our meals should have been freeze-dried for this 12-day stretch. I should have been meticulous regarding pack weight.

I am embarrassed to admit that our packs initially weighed around 65 pounds each, which is excessive when navigating mountain passes at high elevation.

Food Drops Along the JMT

We scheduled two food drops during our hike along the JMT: one at Muir Trail Ranch after 12 days, and another five days later at Reds Meadow.

If I could do this hike over, I’d arrange a third food drop to lighten my load. Pack weight is critical when aiming for 12+ miles per day with significant elevation gain/loss.

Pack a Variety of Foods

Bringing a variety of food is crucial. You’ll get tired of the same flavor of protein bars every day. I recall how elated I felt when fellow hikers shared different flavors of ProBar with us—those bars tasted like heaven!

Additionally, we gratefully received dried apricots and chocolate from another group of JMT hikers, consuming the treats almost immediately.

Keep your backpacking food interesting, and don’t forget to include fun treats like peanut butter M&Ms or Snickers bars for a boost when you need it most. In our food drops, I packed smoked salmon that we savored right away; it was absolutely delicious.

Food Ideas for Along the JMT

• Breakfast: Oatmeal packets, freeze-dried fruit, powdered whole milk, freeze-dried sausage, freeze-dried refried beans, ProBars, lightweight granola.
• Snacks: Various bars, Kind Bars, Pro Bars, Snickers Bars, Peanut M&Ms, trail mix (we didn’t pack enough salty food—I wish we had more chips or Fritos), and energy boosters like Stingers.
• Lunches: I recommend not bringing 12 days of food. “Real” morsels like parmesan cheese or dried fruit make a difference. We also enjoyed peanut butter on crackers or tortillas, and tuna packets.
• Dinners: I prepared my freeze-dried meals and purchased Mountain House meals. Ramen, hot tea, and hot apple cider were also included. It’s a good idea to pack a small container of olive oil for extra calories.

Drinking Water on the Trail

You’ll be drinking from lakes, rivers, and streams on the John Muir Trail, so it’s essential to pack a water filter system. We utilized the Sawyer Squeeze System, which is effective and lightweight. Alternatively, the SteriPen is another option weighing just 3 ounces; simply fill the pouch with backcountry water and filter it for clean drinking.

John Muir Trail Packing List

It’s vitally important to pack clothing and gear suitable for all weather types while hiking the John Muir Trail. Weather in the high mountains can shift from sunny and warm to rainy within moments; some thru-hikers have even encountered snow at higher elevations.

How to Pack for Hiking the John Muir Trail

• Two pairs of wool socks
• Two pairs of underwear
• Two sports bras
• One pair of long hiking pants
• One pair of shorts
• One short-sleeved hiking shirt
• One long-sleeved sun shirt
• One wool sweater
• One hat
• One pair of long john bottoms
• One puffy down coat
• One raincoat
• Rain pants
• Over-ankle hiking boots
• Tevas
• A sun hat

We did “laundry” every night, which meant “washing” our clothes in a nearby stream.

Protecting the Environment in the National Parks

Keep in mind: we never used soap in or near the water! We simply dunked and scrubbed our clothes in fresh spring water, then hung them up to dry overnight on a clothesline. Sometimes, we hiked with wet clothes dangling from our backpacks, allowing the Sierra sunshine to dry them.

I must emphasize the importance of sun protectiveness. On the John Muir Trail, I wore long pants, a long-sleeved shirt, and a sun hat every day to shield my skin from the harsh high-altitude sun.

As a result, I rarely wore sunscreen. Hiking without sunscreen as much as possible is beneficial, as sunscreen can damage delicate ecosystems if it contaminates the water.

If sunscreen is necessary, choose a physical barrier sunscreen containing zinc oxide rather than a chemical alternative.

How the John Muir Trail Changed Me

About ten days into our hike, we trekked 8 miles out of the way to Vermillion Valley Resort for a much-needed half-day off. We enjoyed beer, burgers, and conversed with other JMT hikers, did laundry, and took showers.

What I vividly remember is that the smell of the laundry detergent was overwhelming. Deodorant and even shampoo and conditioner didn’t smell pleasant either. The scent of freshly washed clothes in my tent was almost unbearable. We had become so accustomed to nature’s scents that those of “civilized” humanity felt intolerable.

Sleeping that night in the tent, I started at the sound of a car engine. I hadn’t heard one in almost two weeks! Car doors slamming startled me, and our senses had sharpened remarkably after spending extended time in nature.

When we finally completed the John Muir Trail, the shock of bustling traffic and fast-moving cars was jarring. The presence of loud tourists, reeking of perfume and carrying cameras, felt alien. Listening to music from car stereos was disorienting; I wasn’t ready to confront civilization after experiencing the tranquility of nature.

During my first treadmill run post-hike, tears filled my eyes. Why should I exercise indoors with mountains, forests, and alpine lakes awaiting? The contrast of the “real world” felt entirely wrong and unnatural after solitudinous beauty.

What I can affirm is this: hiking the John Muir Trail will transform you.

In what way, I’m unsure. Nevertheless, you will emerge from the trail with a newfound understanding of yourself. Completing one of the world’s most formidable thru-hikes will provide insights about nature and your own powerful drive to succeed.

Are you planning to hike the John Muir Trail? Consider saving this article for future reference!

Author Bio: Kristin Hanes is a journalist and writer residing on a sailboat and in a van across the San Francisco Bay area. An avid outdoorswoman and beer enthusiast, she blogs about campervans, RVs, sailboats, and tiny homes at The Wayward Home. You can follow her on Instagram, Facebook, and YouTube.