Summary
Beirut Travel
The spotless tile boardwalk sparkled in the setting sun as the sea lapped languidly against the rocks below.
Joggers ran by. Women in burqas posed for selfies. Candy apple red sports cars cruised up the road.
Across the street, modern high-rise apartment houses stood high above the cobalt blue Mediterranean Sea, affording views that justified the sky-high rent.
This vibrant scene echoed memories of Beirut in the mid-20th century, when it was often called the “Paris of the Middle East.”
Life was rich and harmonious in one of the most mixed cultures in the Arab world, yet remnants of the past still lingered in the form of buildings with blown-out windows and crumbling concrete.
Beirut’s Civil War
Bullet holes mark the grim skeletal remains of structures that stand as outdoor reminders of a 15-year civil war, even nearly 30 years after its conclusion.
Beirut’s famous Corniche seafront uniquely juxtaposes Miami Beach with Aleppo as an intriguing backdrop.
I came to Beirut for three reasons.
- To celebrate my birthday with an Italian girlfriend who had always wanted to visit.
- Marina and I had heard Beirut has made a great comeback.
- Friendly Lebanese acquaintances had filled us with tales of incredible restaurants and a vibrant atmosphere, with free-flowing alcohol and peaceful streets.
“ISIS doesn’t come to Beirut,” they said.
“Refugees, yes. – ISIS, no.”
It’s true. Beirut has made a comeback.
In fact, last year, Beirut welcomed 1.96 million visitors, marking the fifth consecutive year of growth following a sharp decline due to the civil war in neighboring Syria.
Beirut Today
Today, Beirut is vibrant and modern, filled with an array of adventurous activities for visitors: nightclubs that pulse until dawn, fashionable locals sipping exquisite Lebanese wine at outdoor cafes, and couples dining in charming restaurants without breaking the bank.
Marina and I shared green apple-flavored nargile, the Lebanese version of hookah, in a restaurant with a breathtaking sea view.
Is Beirut Safe to Visit?
“I hear this all the time: Outside Beirut, people think it’s a scary place,” said Chris Koudouzian, a native who works at Badguer in the Armenian neighborhood of Bourj Hammoud.
Lebanon is often perceived differently from its neighboring countries, as many believe it to be a place of relaxation. “We are surrounded by war. Yes. But it hasn’t affected Lebanon yet,” he asserted.
Problems in Lebanon
Nevertheless, challenges exist. Lebanon’s population of 6 million includes about 1.5 million Syrian refugees, with 80 percent lacking legal status.
Additionally, Lebanon’s staggering $80 billion debt ranks among the top in the world, trailing only Greece and Japan.
During our late March visit, a representative from the World Bank stated that the Lebanese economy “is defying gravity” and would not offer further assistance until the country addresses its electricity issues.
Getting Around Beirut
A major obstacle is the confusing lack of street signs and building numbers. Addresses were not officially assigned until after independence in 1943, and remain noticeably absent.
Most cab drivers are familiar only with major landmarks, leaving passengers to navigate on their own once they arrive in a neighborhood.
Using GPS is highly recommended, as buses are small, old, and infrequent.
Explore Beirut – The Walkable City
Fortunately, Beirut is very walkable. Even amidst a weekend of persistent rain, interesting stories and sights awaited around every corner.
The 15-minute walk from our hotel on the Corniche to downtown felt reminiscent of Milan.
As we strolled through the Beirut Souks, we encountered luxury brands such as Versace and Louis Vuitton, contrasting sharply with the signs of past destruction from World War II.
The Beirut Egg
In downtown Beirut, The Egg stands—a large concrete capsule erected in the 1960s as a movie theater but now resembles a battered shell, scarred by years of conflict.
New Beirut City
A few blocks past The Egg, we found ourselves in the vibrant New Beirut.
We sat outside a trendy coffee shop called Backburner, where young adults casually enjoyed cappuccinos while working on their laptops to soft background music.
This area is the heart of Saifi Village, a revitalized neighborhood featuring modern apartments and chic shops.
A local parent mentioned that one-bedroom apartments in the vicinity sell for $600,000 to $700,000, possibly explaining the $5.60 price tag on my cappuccino.
Mohammad al Amin Mosque
Just two blocks away stands Mohammad al-Amin Mosque, Lebanon’s largest mosque, showcasing impressive Saudi stone architecture with four minarets and striking blue domes.
This mosque, unlike many in the region, emerged as a post-war project initiated in the 1990s.
As I entered, I was greeted by a vast Persian carpet and the sight of a magnificent chandelier, comprised of 13 layers and weighing six tons.
Upon exiting, the nearby St. George Greek Orthodox Cathedral served as a symbol of Beirut’s contemporary harmonious coexistence.
Lively Beirut
Yet despite its traumatic past, Beirut buzzes with energy.
Locals visit stylish boutiques by day and revel in a vibrant nightlife scene by night, demonstrating that the war’s conclusion has led to a cultural revival.
From upscale clubs to cozy neighborhood bars, the choices are abundant. It was in one such bar where Marina and I met Dallin Van Leuven, a former peace researcher who has since relocated to Rome.
Beirut and Alcohol
“Beirut, and the rest of Lebanon, is the most alcoholic place I’ve ever been,” he remarked. “You can drink a beer while taking a taxi, and sometimes the driver is drinking, too.”
While he doesn’t encourage that behavior, he noted that crime rates are low, and Lebanese people are welcoming toward Americans.
The New Generation in Beirut
There is undoubtedly some frustration with American foreign policy, but many Lebanese separate politics from personal friendships. Numerous Lebanese possess family connections in the United States.
Joining our conversation was Charbel Abou Halloun, who has lived in Beirut for 15 years. He embodies the new generation, one that is moving past historical animosities.
“We know our history but must strive to coexist. It’s our parents who experienced the war, not us,” he explained eloquently.
While the ongoing refugee crisis poses challenges, another group has long established roots in the city.
Armenians in Beirut
Armenians began migrating to Lebanon after the Turkish genocide in 1915-16, and today, Bourj Hammoud is one of the city’s most picturesque neighborhoods.
Narrow streets teem with spice shops, bakeries, and jewelry stores, all illuminated by a tangle of electrical wires.
Lebanese Food
Dining at Badguer was the highlight of our delectable weekend in Beirut.
Lebanese cuisine stands out in Middle Eastern gastronomy with dishes like sizzling lamb kabobs and creamy hummus.
At Liza, an enchanting restaurant housed in an Ottoman building, my birthday dinner featured halloum and chiche taouk.
Badguer, doubling as an Armenian cultural center, introduced me to “fish net kebob,” meatballs served in a tangy wild cherry sauce with fried bread.
Is Beirut truly the Paris of the Middle East? Perhaps not entirely, but the new Lebanon shines brightly.
Author Bio:
John Henderson is a freelance writer based in Rome. Follow his travel adventures at www.johnhendersontravel.com and on Twitter at @johnhenderome. Photography by: Marina Pascucci
