Experience Authentic Japanese Ryokan: A Journey into Tradition

When visiting Nikko, Japan, a stay at a Japanese Ryokan is a must. A Ryokan is a traditional Japanese hotel that takes you back in time.

We had the privilege of staying at the picturesque Kanaya Kinugawa Hotel and Onsen located on the Kinugawa River.

It was our final two nights in the Nikko area and what a way to finish it off!

Staying at one of Japan’s luxurious ryokans is worth the splurge for a night or two, with hot spring baths, private meals, and incredible guest rooms.

What is a Japanese Ryokan?

A Ryokan is a traditional Japanese hotel. Rooms typically feature sunken floors for in-room dining that are padded with tatami mats.

In a Ryokan, guests sleep on futons that are set up by the staff while you are out enjoying your meals.

However, more luxurious Ryokans have both futons and beds. We were fortunate enough to experience both a basic Ryokan and a luxury ryokan.

Both beds and duvets are comfortable, complete with the fluffiest duvets you’ve ever seen.

Sliding doors that resemble rice paper screens separate rooms, and some rooms have their own private gardens.

A low table and zabuton floor cushions are front and center for relaxation and tea-drinking.

A Ryokan is often attached to an Onsen (natural hot spring) that flows into the grounds, offering either public baths or private pools for guests.

Yukatas (summer kimonos) are complimentary and available for guests to wear at their leisure.

Traditional Ryokan in Nikko

Nikko embodies tradition in Japan. Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is one of Japan’s most sacred regions.

For centuries, it has served as a vital mountain center of worship for Shinto and Buddhist religions, witnessing the legacy of the first Shogun of Japan.

Today, it is an essential pilgrimage site to see the Toshogu Shrine, which honors Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the shogunate.

If you plan to travel from Tokyo to Nikko, it is advisable to experience these traditional Japanese Inns known as Ryokan.

It promises to be an unforgettable experience.

Rules of a Japanese Ryokan

• Shoes are never worn in your room.
• When entering your room, remove your shoes at the front door and use the provided slippers.
• Different slippers are designated for various activities.
• Slippers are provided for wearing around the hotel, including to dinner and the spa.
• You will receive slippers intended for room use only.
• Different slippers are designated for entering the bathroom or toilet.
• Do your best to change into the appropriate slipper for each occasion.
• Dinners are pre-scheduled; notify the staff in advance of your dining time, as meals involve elaborate preparations.
• Yukatas (light kimonos) are provided for guests; wearing them is recommended, as it is customary.
• If you have questions or are unsure about anything, don’t hesitate to ask; the Japanese people are known for their politeness and are always willing to assist.

Onsen – Public Baths

However, dinner isn’t the main attraction that draws visitors to a Ryokan; it is the hot springs that create a unique experience.

Ryokans are typically situated near natural hot springs, with the famous Kinugawa Onsen just two hours north of Tokyo.

Like many cultural experiences in Japan, there are rituals that make visiting a Ryokan extraordinary.

Public baths must be entered naked and are gender-separated. Men and women enjoy distinct experiences.

The Hotel Kanaya Kinugawa has two stunning spa areas that alternate every day, allowing both genders to enjoy each.

We had the chance to film and capture the experience while observing the transitions in the baths.

Rules of an Onsen – How to Take a Japanese Bath



When visiting an onsen, following the rules is essential.

Prior to entering the hot pools, disrobe from your Yukata and wash thoroughly using the communal water, shower, or bucket available.

Our hotel featured shower stations beside the baths, complete with stools, buckets, soap, shampoo, and loofahs.

Cleansing oneself before soaking in the bath is highly encouraged.

Towels and robes are available for your convenience.

Note: many public onsens require you to provide your own soap, towels, and robes; however, high-end ryokans like Kinugawa hotel offer everything you may need.

Lockers are available for securing your belongings, and this onsen provided plenty of lounge chairs and seating areas for relaxation.

We also enjoyed sauna and steam room facilities!

A Japanese Onsen serves as a space for quiet contemplation and relaxation; therefore, maintaining a peaceful ambiance is paramount.

Japanese Toilets

The toilets in Japan are remarkable, and our bathroom at the Kanaya Kinugawa was among the best.

Japanese toilets are intelligent, equipped with features such as self-cleaning and sanitizing functions, along with hands-free technology for efficient cleaning.

We explored our toilet’s functionalities, navigating through a menu filled with symbols and Japanese characters that we deciphered through trial and error.

The seats are heated, and once your business is done, you can opt to wash either end while aiming the water with precision using conveniently placed buttons.

We experimented with pressure, position, and controls, concluding our experience with the butt dryer for a refreshing finish.

With these advanced machines, toilet paper is often unnecessary. I doubt Dave has ever anticipated his morning visit as much as during our stay in Japan!

The Kanaya Kinugawa Hotel and Onsen

The Kanaya Kinugawa Hotel is a modernized ryokan offering luxurious amenities.

Fortunately for us, a knowledgeable guide helped us navigate the rules of the Ryokan; our guide Yoshi reminded us to remove our shoes upon entering our room and switch to the provided slippers.

After a brief tour from the hotel staff, we expressed our excitement to discover we would be staying in a traditional Japanese Inn!

Our initial exploration led us to the toilet. Japan is unmatched when it comes to toilet experiences!

Traditional Japanese Hotel Room

Our room offered the choice of sleeping on tatami mats or in a bed. Since we had already enjoyed a tatami experience in another ryokan, we opted for beds this time.

Nonetheless, it is essential to sleep on futons at least once during your visit.

Dinner time would see staff entering our room to rearrange the low table and cushions, transforming the space for our night’s rest.

I cannot recall ever experiencing such fluffy duvets; had I more room in my luggage, I would have loved to take some home!

The comfort level was remarkable, with many elderly Japanese still choosing futons for sleeping even today.

Our room exuded luxury with a tatami area, a cozy sitting space, a separate bedroom featuring two double beds, and a distinct shower and washroom area separate from the toilet.

We even enjoyed a private bath; however, the communal public baths are simply divine. (You’ll be reading about this further in the article)

Hot tea was provided, and we brewed a fresh cup while gazing from the balcony at the magnificent hills of Nikko National Park.

In contrast to Western hotels, where a simple kettle suffices, in this ryokan, a temperature-controlled hot pot ensured instant hot water accessibility.

A smart tablet was even provided for our convenience during our stay; I genuinely did not want to leave our room!

Yukatas

One of the first activities upon entering a Ryokan is changing into the provided Yukatas.

Yukatas are lightweight kimonos worn throughout the hotel.

Guests wear them for dinner, during visits to the public baths, and in the bar area—essentially anytime in public spaces.

How to Wear a Yukata

While wearing a Yukata, it is customary to wear nothing but underwear beneath this lightweight robe.

To don the Yukata, bring the right side over to your left and then fold the left side over the right.

Secure it with the sash provided, tying it on the left side. Women may choose to create a bow at the back.

Additionally, the hotel supplies white socks with a slot for the big toe to accommodate the slippers (flip-flop or thong type).

When properly dressed, you may choose to wear an outer vest or jacket for warmth, especially during autumn.

Finally, the hotel provides a silk pouch to carry your cell phone, keys, and other essentials throughout your stay.

They truly consider every detail for guest comfort!

Kaiseki Dinner at a Japanese Ryokan

Now dressed appropriately, it’s time to experience the highlight of staying at a traditional Japanese Ryokan—the Kaiseki dinner.

We were unaware that dining was such a significant aspect of the experience and were astonished by the duration of our meals every night.

However, local Japanese guests anticipate an extravagant dinner lasting approximately two hours.

Meals can be served in your tatami room, and we observed many guests opting for this arrangement.

During our walks to the dining room, we noticed various room service tables placed outside guest doorways throughout the hall.

Since we don’t speak Japanese and required our guide to clarify our meal selections, we enjoyed dinner each night in a private dining space with Yoshi.

Yoshi explained each course, guiding us through the appropriate times to accompany dishes with sake, beer, or tea.

The meals at the Kanaya Kinugawa are truly exceptional.

Chef John Kanagawa achieves a remarkable fusion of French and Japanese cuisines, crafting a ten-course meal that is nothing short of perfection.

While a few dishes challenged our Western palates, the majority were delightful surprises.

We were served soups, sushi, Wagyu beef, and an array of fresh seasonal ingredients sourced from the Kinigawu River, Tochigi, and throughout Japan.

The meal commenced and concluded in the lounge, where we savored canapés and aperitifs in preparation for the main event.

Two hours after starting, we returned to the lounge to discover a dessert cart laden with macarons, chocolate, and sweet treats to accompany tea or coffee.

The dinner experience is a sight to behold and should never be hurried!

As we lounged at night, it became clear why people choose to visit a Ryokan. It is truly a sanctuary to unwind and escape the hustle and bustle of life.

Time for Bed – Pajamas Provided

After a day filled with relaxation and delicious dining, you will be ready for an incredible night’s sleep.

Many Ryokans provide pajamas for guests, and the Kanaya Kinugawa was no different.

Pajamas are strictly for use inside your room, and should not be worn in public spaces.

We received a cozy pair of pajamas to change into before settling down for a restful night in our comfortable beds.

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