Summary
Hidden in the steep cliffs and mysterious pine forests of Kintamani, Indonesia, far away from prying eyes, is the infamous Trunyan cemetery, a place that has earned the nickname ‘Skull Island Bali’.
This little island is part of an obscure village community on the far end of Lake Batur (in northeast Bali) where the locals have buried their dead above ground for centuries. The cemetery is always open to visitors, but you have to go by boat.
A visit to Trunyan island is one of the most bizarre, unusual, and authentic experiences you can have in Bali.
History & Rituals Of Trunyan Village
Desa Trunyan village and the mountains of Kintamani were inhabited by the Bali Aga (aboriginal people) for centuries before the Hindu migration from Java to Bali.
Trunyanese villagers live on the east shore of Lake Batur, not too far from the active Mount Batur volcano, making them one of the most isolated communities in Bali, Indonesia.
In contrast to most Balinese, who cremate their dead, the Trunyanese have the unusual practice of burying their dead above ground on Trunyan island, which is still being practiced today.
The bodies are washed, dressed, and protected with a small bamboo cage that keeps monkeys and other animals away until the corpse decomposes naturally in the elements.
After the body dissolves, the skull is taken and placed on a rock platform nearby to make room for new bodies.
The name Trunyan (also spelled ‘Tarunyan’) may have originally come from an ancient banyan tree, Teru Menyan, that sits at the cemetery. This remarkable tree emits a fragrance that locals credit for neutralizing the smell of the decomposing bodies at Desa Trunyan cemetery.
Trunyan Cemetery – Skull Island Bali
We visited Skull Island Bali on a sunny, breezy afternoon in July, and it could not have been a nicer day.
This may be why I did not find the place scary, just bizarre and interesting. However, I still would not want to spend a night there.
Upon arriving on Trunyan island, you are greeted by a gate adorned with two human skulls. The atmosphere felt reminiscent of something out of Pirates of the Caribbean.
A large banyan tree stretches its roots and branches in all directions, sheltering a rock platform cluttered with skulls and femur bones.
On the left, a group of small bamboo frames hold fresh corpses laid to rest at Trunyan cemetery, along with some of their favorite worldly possessions.
During our visit, a young woman’s body had just been laid there after she passed away from cancer. Bottles of mineral water were left nearby as gifts.
Strangely, we did not notice any bad smell in Trunyan cemetery despite being just a couple of meters away from the decaying bodies. The locals attribute this to the banyan tree, yet we did not observe any scent emanating from it.
Regardless, it remains a tranquil site, and the island’s solitude is perfect for a small private cemetery. The island is quite tiny, enabling a visitor to see everything within 30 to 60 minutes.
While taking photographs, our boatman shared eerie local tales about Desa Trunyan village. For instance, a western tourist once took one of the skulls in a box as a souvenir, only to return it after experiencing hauntings at night.
In another instance, a group of Indonesian tourists from Banten (Jakarta) stole bones, and shortly thereafter their car veered off a cliff while navigating the winding roads out of Kintamani. Regardless of personal beliefs, theft in such a sacred context is undoubtedly a bad idea!
Overall, Trunyan cemetery was captivating, presenting one of the most peculiar and distinct experiences we have encountered in Bali.
How To Get There
Reaching Trunyan Bali involves driving to the Kedisan dock at Lake Batur, followed by a boat ride across the lake.
Your journey starts with getting to Lake Batur, located in the Kintamani area, along the northeast side of Bali, making it roughly a 1-2 hour drive from popular tourist destinations such as Ubud, Sanur, Canggu, and Kuta in southern Bali.
For convenience, renting a scooter or hiring a private car with a driver can enhance your travel experience (both options are accessible online).
Boat Ride To Trunyan Island
Once at Lake Batur docks, a boat ride will take you to Trunyan island.
Given the steep cliffs surrounding Trunyan, alternative access is virtually impossible, thus earning it the moniker ‘Skull Island Bali’. There are rumored paths accessible through a very steep hike, though they remain untested.
Unfortunately, this situation allows locals to charge high rates for the boat ride from Kedisan, as the journey lasts only about 15 to 30 minutes.
Entrance Fees
- Desa Trunyan Village Entry Fee: 10k IDR (~$1)
- Kedisan Docks Parking: 2k IDR
- Boat To Trunyan Island Bali: 650k IDR ($45)
Boat Fee Mafia
The primary cost associated with visiting Trunyan island (aka ‘Skull Island Bali’) is the expensive boat ride from Kedisan, which costs 650k Rupiah ($45 USD) for a return trip. Rates have reportedly increased since the pandemic.
To illustrate, many Indonesians earn less than that for an entire week. You could secure a car and driver in Bali for a lower price encompassing 10 hours of service, while the boat ride lasts only about 15 minutes.
Kintamani, one of Bali’s economically disadvantaged areas, unfortunately harbors numerous scams, including the hiking mafia controlling Mount Batur.
In this particular instance, alternatives are limited since access to the cemetery is predominantly achievable by boat due to its steep surroundings. My wife, being a local Balinese, was unable to negotiate a lower fare, as they maintain a transport monopoly.
The good news is that the price is per boat and not per person. Therefore, trying to find other tourists to share the boat can ease the individual cost.
The boats should accommodate 8 or 10 people; however, be cautious as the boat operators may attempt to limit this number to increase profits.
Despite the exorbitant entrance fee, the experience of visiting Trunyan cemetery was indeed worthwhile, showcasing one of the most obscure yet fascinating places in Bali.
Skull Island Bali Tour
If you wish to streamline your visit to Trunyan, various companies offer all-inclusive day trips to Skull Island Bali, featuring hotel transfers, boat tickets, entrance fees, and personal guides.
These tours often include stops at significant sites, allowing you to experience some of Bali’s most bizarre and unusual customs.
Where To Stay In Kintamani
