48 Hours in Brisbane: Discover the River City

It seems odd that Brisbane, Australia’s third-largest city and Queensland’s capital, could be described as ‘undiscovered’. However, as the 2.2 million residents attest, this is precisely the case. Sydney has the beaches, the iconic architecture, and celebrity chefs; Melbourne has the coffee, the culture, and big-ticket sports events – but Brisbane? Who knows anything much about Brisbane?

Folded around the bends of its eponymous river, the city is a patchwork of neighborhoods, each with a distinct topography and cultural verve. With a bit of legwork and 48 hours to explore (though you’ll more likely be wearing a T-shirt in these semi-tropical latitudes), you’ll soon persuade the ‘River City’ into revealing its secrets. Walk, jump on a train, and catch a ferry: following this itinerary will give you a snapshot of Brisbane’s best bits.

Day one: From Big Business to Beers by the River

The CBD (Central Business District) is, clue in the name, where Brisbane conducts business. On a long triangular peninsula sloping down to the river, the oldest part of the city showcases high-rises and swanky hotels offering rooms with enticing views. Start your day with breakfast and coffee at hipster spots or the upmarket Eagle Street Pier complex. Don’t forget to check out City Hall (where the Rolling Stones played their first-ever Australian gig) and the Museum of Brisbane inside, then follow the joggers into the refined City Botanic Gardens on the peninsula’s point.

Next, hoof it across the Goodwill Bridge to South Bank (technically west of the CBD), Brisbane’s cultural epicenter. The Gallery of Modern Art (GOMA), Queensland Art Gallery, Queensland Museum, and the Queensland Performing Arts Centre are all part of the Queensland Cultural Precinct. Between these cultural institutions and the river, you’ll find the South Bank Parklands. Though a planned district, its bougainvillea-draped paths and cafes with views across to the CBD make for a pleasant post-museum spot of relaxation.

As evening falls, Fortitude Valley (aka the Valley) wakes up. It’s not so much a valley as a series of gentle hillsides, but either way, it’s a great place to enjoy the nightlife among the numerous pubs, bars and clubs. Hungry party-goers can indulge in delightful noodles and dumplings from Brisbane’s Chinatown, a parade of neon-lit eateries along Duncan Street. For an art fix, visit the Institute of Modern Art, GOMA’s edgy little brother: subversive, risqué, and always engaging.

If you’re looking for alternatives to the grungy main strip of the Valley, stroll over to tree-lined James Street. An upmarket parade of designer boutiques, restaurants, and an arthouse cinema, it’s recently had the stylish Calile hotel added to its allure. A fusion of Brutalist concrete with Palm Springs cool, it’s an elegant place to spend the night. However, before you finish your first day in Brisbane, enjoy a nightcap at one of the city’s major redevelopments, Howard Smith Wharves, tucked under the Story Bridge. Felons Brewing Co was the first part of the project to open—a massive haven for craft beer where you can savor its home brews and excellent food while taking in breathtaking river and city views.

Day Two: Cool Neighborhoods and Perfect Panoramas

Kicking off day two in New Farm, right next to Fortitude Valley but leafier and more suburban, this affluent and refined neighborhood has a sizeable gay population and more fantastic eateries than you have time for, primarily around Brunswick Street. Don’t miss the Brisbane Powerhouse, a once-derelict power station turned cultural hub, hosting comedy, theatre, live music, and a couple of cool bars. Next to it, waterfront New Farm Park features a farmers market, beautiful rose garden, bandstand with regular Sunday music, and a ferry stop for easy access to West End.

Brisbane’s funky, bohemian heartland—West End—is where punks, skaters, junkies, musicians, and artists gather around Boundary Street and Vulture Street, conjuring up a bookish, caffeinated vibe. This is the place to catch earnest singer-songwriters and sip craft beers while browsing secondhand books or rummaging for vintage gear. Brisbane’s vibrant Greek community is also centered here. Sniff out Archive Beer Boutique for an enticing array of meaty stouts and hoppy IPAs (check out the bar made from books), and, if it’s a Friday or Saturday, stroll over to the Boundary Street Markets with their eclectic mix of buskers, street food, massage tables, and pop-up retro fashion stalls. After all this, you can’t beat some fish and chips from Sea Fuel.

From West End, taxi or ride-share across the river again and head up to Paddington. Rolling up steep Given Terrace, this area is perfect for browsing boutiques and antique shops or grabbing a coffee. Roasting on-site, Merlo Torrefazione is an outlet of Merlo Coffee, a local bean-roaster that’s got the Brisbane caffeine scene cornered.

Finally, what better way to finish your two-day adventure in Brisbane than with a bird’s-eye view of the city you’ve just been exploring? Panoramas don’t come better than the one offered by Mt Coot-tha, a 287-metre-high hill nestled in parkland west of Paddington. You can drive or bus it up here (or take a scenic walk through the woods) with your reward being the whole of Brisbane laid out before you, and the Pacific Ocean beyond. You can even raise a toast to your 48 fun-filled hours with a drink in the Summit Restaurant.

Getting Around

Trains and buses will navigate you around the city effortlessly. Walking or cycling is a pleasant way to transition from one spot to another if the weather’s favorable: bridges over the river are conveniently placed, and straight-line distances are often deceptively short, once you’ve acclimatized to the river’s meandering paths. The Brisbane Riverwalk, a path for pedestrians and cyclists suspended above part of the river, is a particularly scenic option for a leisurely stroll. Nevertheless, the best way to traverse Brisbane is on the river: take a ferry, some of which are even free, gliding from pier to pier with the breeze in your hair, appreciating how fortunate Brisbanites (and now you) are to enjoy such an attractive city.