Quick, name a wine- and food-loving European city within reach of ancient monasteries and world-class vineyards! You’re likely thinking of France or Italy. However, consider Chişinău, Moldova. Now better connected than ever by air to Western Europe, this leafy capital offers an appealing and affordable short break, featuring a delightful mix of accessible sights, lively nightlife, and post-Soviet exoticism.
Day One
Morning
Day one is all about walking, so start with fueling up at Coffee Molka, a quirky café that also functions as a coffee museum. Here, you can marvel at antique presses and grinders while sipping coffee brewed over hot sand—an old Turkish method. Don’t forget to ask for a demonstration. Next, a short stroll leads you to the Army Museum, which houses a poignant exhibition on repression during the Soviet era, detailing the deportations and crimes committed by Stalin in Moldova through impactful dioramas and videos.
After absorbing Chişinău’s historical context, it’s time to dive into its contemporary delights. Head northwest along the city’s main thoroughfare, B-dul Ştefan cel Mare. Here, you’ll find fine examples of fin-de-siècle architecture like the City Hall (at No 83) and the Organ Hall (at No 81), along with some notable Soviet designs. A short detour southwest leads you to the magnificent National Archaeology & History Museum, distinctly marked by an old Soviet helicopter in the courtyard. This museum charmingly documents Moldova’s 2000-year history with more than 300,000 artifacts. Art enthusiasts may find themselves captivated by the well-rounded National Art Museum nearby. Both museums are conveniently located on Str 31 Aug 1989, a vibrant area filled with bars and restaurants, making it an ideal spot for lunch.
Afternoon
Make the most of Moldovan cuisine during your 48-hour visit, which offers similarities to Romanian food alongside Russian influences. Begin your culinary journey at Pani Pit, where you can try Moldovan classics like grilled rabbit and beef tartare. Enjoy your meal in the rustic-themed downstairs dining area or outside in the charming courtyard.
Chişinău’s spiritual essence is found in two adjacent central parks; exploring these after lunch is highly recommended. Grădina Publică Ştefan cel Mare şi Sfânt is named after Moldova’s national hero, offering a statue of Ştefan cel Mare in the park’s southeast corner. Nearby, you can see Chişinău’s very own Arc de Triomphe, marking the entrance to Parcul Catedralei, home to the striking 19th-century Nativity of Christ Metropolitan Cathedral with its impressive bell tower. If you’re lucky, you might even catch a service accompanied by beautiful Orthodox choral music.
Pedestrianized Str E Doga, which borders the northeast side of Parcul Catredalei, is filled with outdoor bars and restaurants. Consequently, this is a perfect moment to begin sampling Moldovan wines. Alternatively, if more museums pique your interest, grab a coffee at the delightful Crème de la Crème, then take a 10-minute walk through charming back streets to the intriguing Pushkin Museum, located at the site where Alexander Pushkin spent three years in exile in the 1820s, indulging in legendary romantic escapades.
Evening
Get ready for a night out by returning to vibrant Str 31 Aug 1989 for a pre-dinner drink at one of the outdoor cafés near Str Puşkin. For dinner, visit Vatra Neamului to continue your Moldovan culinary education. Start with plăcinte (stuffed pastries), particularly with brânză (ewe cheese). For the main dish, savor supă domească (literally ‘princely soup’), filled with vegetables, meat, and herbs, accompanied by mămăligă (boiled cornmeal mash) and sour cream. Complement your meal with a glass of Purcari, a wine from one of Moldova’s top boutique wineries, while enjoying traditional folk music performed by a skilled duet.
You are now in the heart of Chişinău’s entertainment zone, making it easy to find a lively bar after dinner. DÉjà Vu is renowned for its elaborate shots and energetic atmosphere, while on weekends, you might find yourself dancing until sunrise at the popular Military Pub.
Day Two
Morning
Although the museums are interesting, let’s be real—you’re here for the wine. Moldova was known as the Rhone Valley of the Soviet Union, with two of the world’s largest wineries situated within 20km of Chişinău: Mileştii Mici and Cricova. Mileştii Mici boasts impressive records with 200km of tunnels and 1.5 million bottles of wine; however, Cricova offers a more charming atmosphere and better quality wines. Because visitor numbers are limited, make sure to arrange a tour well in advance through a travel agent in Chişinău. Dining is highly recommended at both wineries—medieval-style meals in the caves provide a unique culinary adventure.
If wine isn’t your preference, consider taking a half-day trip to Orheiul Vechi (Old Orhei), home to Moldova’s most famous site: a breathtaking hilltop cave monastery overlooking the Răut River, just 50km north of Chişinău.
Afternoon
Your afternoon options will depend on how much wine you tasted earlier. Serious wine lovers might wish to explore another winery, perhaps a smaller boutique like Château Vartely, located 50km north of Chişinău, or Château Cojuşna, available just 13km northwest. Others may prefer to enjoy a siesta, followed by a visit to another museum, such as the National Museum of Ethnography & Natural History. This museum boasts wonderful dioramas depicting Moldovan folk life, extensive exhibits on local flora and fauna, and even the skeleton of a prehistoric mammal known as the dinothere.
Evening
For your final evening in Chişinău, immerse yourself in the local culture. Performances at the Opera & Ballet Theatre are exceptionally affordable, costing just 50 lei to 200 lei (approximately US$2.50 to US$10). The schedule can be erratic, and the theatre often closes for part of the summer, yet you can typically expect a show every Sunday at 4pm. Afterward, unwind on the lovely outdoor terrace at Mojito, the best people-watching spot in the city. Order a drink—just be cautious as they are quite large—or a coffee if you’re ready to skip the alcohol.
You may choose to enjoy your sushi dinner here; however, we recommend a quick 10-minute taxi ride to Gok-Oguz, a Gagauzian restaurant. The Gagauz are a lesser-known Christian-Turkic ethnic minority in Moldova, with their own autonomous region. Dining here is the next best thing to visiting that region. The menu, with its Turkish, Russian, and Romanian influences, focuses heavily on stewed meats—particularly lamb. Don’t miss trying the pirinci (mutton pilaf). Settle into the cozy ambiance, be it indoors or outside in the intimate nooks, uncork one last bottle of Purcari, and raise a toast to your discovery of Europe’s least-known city break.
