Egypt is changing by the minute as it continues its post-revolution recovery. However, there are still a number of unshakeable constants in Cairo: the city’s ancient past, its contemporary art and music scene, and the colloquial morning greeting that earns warm smiles and instant friends. As one of the host cities of the Africa Cup of Nations, Cairo expects to welcome thousands of football fans in June and July 2019. Here are some ideas on how to spend your time when you’re not at a football match.
Time for the Pyramids?
While the pyramids of Giza, Saqqara, and Dahshur deserve a day to themselves, it is indeed possible to squeeze a visit to the Giza necropolis into a day filled with other activities if you’re pressed for time. Plan to be there for its 8am opening (7am in summer) to wander around the famed three pyramids of pharaohs Khufu, Khafre, and Menkaure, dating from 2550 to 2490 BC, as well as the iconic Sphinx.
Once the Grand Egyptian Museum, which houses headline attractions like the towering statue of Ramses II and King Tut’s golden death mask, opens in 2020, Giza will command a full day or two of your time.
Morning
If you’re able to save the pyramids for their own dedicated day, begin with Coptic Cairo, the serene home to some of the oldest churches in Christianity’s history. After sunrise, ride south along the Corniche next to the Nile to feel virtually alone in a city of more than 20 million people. Since traffic tends to clog up as the day progresses, completing the most significant part of your journey first can indeed save time. For a budget-friendly option, consider taking the metro toward Helwan to the Mar Girgis stop, located right next to the site. Start with the intricate carvings on the wooden doors of the Hanging Church, which served as the seat of the Coptic Pope from the 7th to the 13th centuries. Then, enjoy exploring the area’s many other historically significant structures, including the Ben Ezra Synagogue with its rare manuscripts and the Church of St George with its impressive dome.
Take a short cab ride over to the capital’s other center of antiquity, Islamic Cairo, and ascend to the Mosque of Mohammed Ali and the Citadel, a dramatic structure offering panoramic views of the city. You can either walk through the Bab Zuwayla gate to lose yourself in the hustle and haggle of Khan Al Khalili market, or head back toward the Corniche to catch a felucca ride on the Nile at the Dok Dok landing dock in Garden City.
Recharge by enjoying a traditional Cairene breakfast of fuul (fava bean paste), ta’amiyya (the Egyptian variant of falafel), or kushari (a mix of noodles, rice, black lentils, fried onions, and tomato sauce) while wandering the vibrant streets of downtown. After taking in the impressive structures of Tahrir Square, stroll along Talaat Harb street toward Townhouse Gallery, the celebrated hub of many of Egypt’s most compelling contemporary artists.
Afternoon
Escape the impending bottleneck from school buses starting at 2pm by heading across the 26 July bridge to Zamalek, where you can spend leisurely afternoon hours in this pedestrian-friendly neighborhood. Start with the Aisha Fahmy Palace, a transformed mansion now functioning as an arts center, then stroll along 26 July St to sample its many shops, juicers, and boutiques. For a lighter lunch, pop into the cafe Self, or indulge in loaded nachos and a burger at Mince.
Shop along Mohammed Maraashly and Brazil streets to pick up handmade Egyptian crafts, unique jewelry, or a rug or two. The numerous art galleries and boutiques lining Zamalek’s quaint streets make it ideal for wandering. To cool down, a scoop of gelato from Mandarine Koueider, a popular dessert shop with outdoor seating for people-watching, can be a delicious excuse for a rest.
Sunset
A quick cab ride to the southern end of the island brings you to the Cairo Opera House, a landmark of Egypt’s cultural scene. The pristine property houses dance and music halls, as well as an art and history museum, making it the ideal place to enjoy a quiet sunset. Be sure to check the opera board schedule in case you’re interested in attending a performance. If not, consider taking a leisurely walk to the nearby Qasr El Nil bridge, a lively spot favored by families, young couples, and groups of friends seeking selfies with a stunning Nile view.
Evening
Extend your evening on the west side of the Nile in Doqqi and Mohandiseen, neighborhoods famous for their underground scene comprising clubs and late-night cafes. Start by indulging in fresh seafood with shrimp and calamari at Samakmak (24 Ahmed Orabi St) or try clams at Gandofli (80 Ahmed Orabi St). Both restaurants are situated in the vibrant heart of Mohandiseen, offering quick access to the area’s bars and clubs. Experience the nightlife with a cocktail or an Egyptian lager at Basement Urban Pub before making your way to Cairo Jazz Club, where you can enjoy performances by the city’s finest musicians and DJs. It’s advisable to reserve in advance, however, tourists can often negotiate their entry.
For a unique Middle Eastern experience, hop on one of the numerous colorful party boats that cruise along the Nile, allowing passengers to dance to lively music. Afterward, unwind at a downtown cafe with a sweet tea and a fruit-flavored shisha. Consider visiting Cafeteria El Horreya downtown for mingling with Cairo’s bohemian crowd over a drink or a game of chess. Start with a friendly sabah al-khair or sabah el-fol to exchange the colloquial ‘good morning’ greeting, leading to smiles and delightful conversation until the closing time at 5am.
Article first published January 2019, and last updated June 2019
